Little-known, yet packed with a tantalising blend of history and hedonism, Bratislava provides everything the world-weary weekend-break-taker needs for a refreshing, soul-reviving European jaunt.

Don’t say ‘It’s just like a mini Prague’, though. Bratislava is very much its own metropolis, with its own distinct identity, history and culture.

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Hardly anybody knows Bratislava. Everybody knows Prague.

Everybody’s been to Prague and everybody has a Prague tale; from a drunken mishap after a stag do, to a secret pub selling the best beer in the world, to a beautiful Czech local who stole their heart.

Only the select few – those in the know – talk about Bratislava.

I sometimes think that maybe we should keep it that way.

Photo Taken In Bratislava, Slovakia
(Picture: Getty)

Bratislava’s dinky size is satisfying; you have the sense that you can discover everything in a few days, see all the important sights and get a real feel for the place without the lingering doubt that you might have missed something secret or spectacular.

In recent years, Blava, as it’s known to young locals, has transformed itself into a foodie heaven, with a cafe culture to rival all the classic coffee-house capitals of Central Europe.

It’s got everything that Prague has – and more.

Here’s a light-hearted look at how Bratislava beats Prague every time for a fun-packed weekend break.

Christmas markets

bratislava christmas market
(Picture: Getty)

The beautiful and historic, tree-lined squares of the Old Town are packed with little stalls, offering handmade wooden toys, embroidered waistcoats and handblown glassware.

Keep away the chill with locals snacks; sausages and frisbee-sized doughnuts slathered in soured cream, cheese and garlic to soak up loads of weird alcoholic drinks, such as Hriato (‘warming’ in Slovak), a bizarre blend of bacon caramelised in honey and booze.

The local liqueur, Demanovka, tastes like pine trees in a glass, and you don’t have to fight your way through a massive queue at the bar.

Kapustnica (cabbage soup) with added sausage, dried mushrooms and plums, makes a wonderful hangover cure.

Compact, easily negotiable size

bratislava cafe
(Picture: Getty)

Blava is compact and easy to negotiate, especially in the Old Town, where you’re never more than two doors away from a cafe or bar.

Don’t worry about the crowds that throng Praha’s streets – here, you’ll always be able to find a comfy bar stool or welcoming sofa.

The mighty Danube 

The great, green Danube links Bratislava to Vienna and Budapest, forming the trio of the historic Austro-Hungarian Empire.

Kirchturm der Kathedrale St. Martin, Martinsdom, Neue Brücke über die Donau, Stadtansicht, Bratislava, Slowakei
(Picture: Getty)

Bratislava has always been strategically important and now the location is very convenient for visitors, who can take boat trips in either direction to these wonderful cities.

Bratislava and Vienna are the closest capitals in the world – 34 miles, as the crow flies –  and you can get even cheaper flights to Vienna then take the bus.

Dinky St. Martin’s Cathedral 

Everything here is stunningly beautiful as with Prague, but in miniature versions.

Elevated view of St Martin's Cathedral and skyline of Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia
(Picture: Getty)

Mini-Me St Martin’s Cathedral was built between the 13th and 15th centuries and hosted the coronations for 11 Hungarian kings and eight royal spouses.

Trace the historic coronation route around the Old Town by following the little brass crowns set into the cobblestones.

Two opera houses

Bratislava is blessed with not one but two outstanding opera houses.

old opera house
The old opera house (Picture: Lucy Mallows)

The historic home of the Slovak National Theatre was constructed in 1884-86 to the designs of Viennese architects Fellner and Helmer.

Music lovers can pick up tickets for an opera or ballet performance with prices starting at £2.25 for lesser known works, from £9 for Aida or Turandot.

The new Opera House opened in 2007 with a gala performance.

It’s located by the Danube, next to the massive Eurovea complex of stores, offices and leisure facilities. The acoustics are simply stunning.

Slovak National Theatre, Bratislava, Slovakia, Europe
The new opera house (Picture: Getty)

The pedestrianised Old Town 

The fact that the entertainment hub of the Old Town is car-free is great for when you’ve sampled the local brews a little too enthusiastically.

Slovak beer and dumplings 

Slovak beer and dumplings hold their own in competition with Czech pivo (beer) and knedliky (dumplings).

The favourite beverage is Zlaty Bazant (Golden Pheasant), but Blava also boasts a clutch of micro-breweries.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bcfpxn1HKaM/?tagged=richtarjakub

At the Richtar Jakub inn, you can sample all the beers in 100ml glasses.

The beer garden at Funus in the hills behind Slavín monument, wafts me right back to those heady, pilsner-drenched days of 1980s Czechoslovakia.

Beer pours from a tap in the exterior wall and the dumpling-rich lunch menu costs £3.50.

Funus beer and dumplings
(Picture: Lucy Mallows)

Kamzik Hills

Bratislava is surrounded by hills, forests, rivers and lakes. For a trip back in time, ride the rattling 203 trolleybus up to the Kamzik hills, and sip Kofola; a lemony, Czech cola served in half-litre mugs.

Slide down the bob sleigh, ride the chair lift or enjoy a 360-degree view of the Slovak, Austrian and Hungarian countryside from the revolving – and newly renovated – upscale restaurant, Altitude.

UFO 

The SNP bridge is a unique engineering masterpiece to rival Prague’s Charles Bridge, if not for beauty then for sheer retro wackiness.

Neue Brücke mit Aussichtsplattform und Restaurant UFO, Verkehr, Nahverkehr, Donau, Bratislava, Slowakei
(Picture: Getty)

Expect a stratospheric bill when dining in the flying saucer UFO, but treat yourself to a cocktail, check out the ‘loo with a view’ and flash your bits at Petrzalka, Central Europe’s largest housing estate below.

Devin

A short, rattling bus-ride away, and you’re in Devin, where you can visit the castle ruins, sip red currant wine and get a sense of how recent history still looms over the present.

The memorial to the Iron Curtain by the river Danube reminds us of how close the border with Austria – the West – was.

The Iron Curtain bunker
The Iron Curtain bunker (Picture: Lucy Mallows)

Try a bike trip with the guys at Authentic Slovakia to see the concrete bunkers hidden in the bushes by the border.

Restaurants and hotels

Bratislava has some great restaurants and gorgeous boutique hotels at good prices.

The Slovaks beat the Czechs to getting the Euro, which makes currency conversion much easier than with the Czech Koruna.

There’s a wide variety of cuisines on offer, and plenty of veggie eateries, if the traditional diet of pork, cabbage and dumplings is not your bag.

For the drinkers, there are quality local wines and beers, homemade lemonades, little coffee stalls pulled by guys and girls on bikes, and literary tea houses.

Where to eat and where to drink:

Soupa Bistro for hearty soups, salads, juices and cakes, but be prepared to queue at lunchtime.

Urban House is a cool place to chill in the heart of the Old Town. Great pizzas, avocado toast and the halloumi and portobello mushroom burger (£7) is to die for. Sip a homemade lemonade while swinging gently in the hammock.

urban house
(Picture: Lucy Mallows

Savage Garden on the imposing square Namestie Slobody, has amazing salads, burgers, divine desserts and some wild cocktail mixes.

Sip coffee and people-watch at Stur reviving the kaffee und kuchen culture of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

Skybar is the place for early evening drinks with a spectacular view over the rooftops of the Old Town.

Foxford leads the way in the new craze for blending bookshops with cafes, providing cosy, comfy seating and a range of hot drinks and cakes.

I can’t leave out Koun Gelato, where they make the best ice cream in Central Europe with some fabulously imaginative taste creations and ‘zmrzlina’ (ice cream) is my favourite Slovak word.

Koun Gelato
(Picture: Lucy Mallows)

Surrounding Vineyards

The Little Carpathian hills surrounding the Slovak capital, are dotted with vineyards and cellars, producing cheap, yet good quality whites.

Village bistros offer hearty ‘drinking dishes’ such as bryndzove halusky – little gnocchi dumplings with diced bacon and soured cream.

The vineyards and cellars are a hired bike ride away,

Architecture

Granted, Prague has some spectacular buildings, but Bratislava crams more Baroque, Art Nouveau and Socialist Realist buildings into a small space than anywhere else.

blue church bratislava
(Picture: Getty)

For some amazing architectural contrasts, visit the Blue Church, an Art Nouveau fairytale gem that looks as if it’s been spun from icing sugar, then marvel at the audacious engineering of Slovak Radio’s inverted pyramid.

Visit beautiful Baroque churches in the Old Town, then walk past concrete reliefs of socialist workers to sip cocktails in the UFO flying saucer.

Statues

Bratislava’s streets are populated with statues, some humorous, some plain weird. These provide great backdrops for photo opportunities and an insight into the Slovak sense of humour.

Visitors love to pose with the Napoleonic soldier in the Main Square (Hlavne namestie), while the dandy, Schone Naci, smiling and tipping his hat to the ladies on the corner of the main square, actually has a very tragic back story.

Cumil Bratislava, Bratislava Region, Slovakia
Curious Cumil (Picture: Getty)

Cumil is a strange character, peering up out of a manhole while creepy troll Posmievacik (the ‘Mocker’) squats in an alcove and flashes his winky at the tourists on Panska street.

Street art

bratislava grafitti
(Picture: Lucy Mallows)

Bratislava’s back streets and more grimy areas, such as the bus station under SNP Bridge are open-air exhibition sites for some imaginative art work.

My favourite is the subway under the main road, Staromestska, leading to Kozia street where the great architectural masterpieces are depicted in paintings on the walls.

How to get there and where to stay:

Ryanair flies from London Stansted direct to Bratislava (2hrs, 10 mins). Flights start from £22 one-way.

The historic Hotel Devin is located conveniently between Hviezdoslavovo namestie (square) and the Danube.

Or try a cheaper version; the bizarrely-named Freddie Next to Mercury hostel.

Downtown Backpackers hostel is situated above a superb pub and bistro and conveniently opposite BikeBratislava hire.

More information at Bratislava Tourist Office

(Top picture: Getty)

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